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She was later declared guilty in the Cultural Revolution for wearing a cheongsam. Since s, with the trend of reevaluation of Chinese traditional culture, people in mainland China started to pay attention to the cheongsam again.
The cheongsam is gaining popularity in films, beauty pageants, and fashion shows in both China and other countries all over the world.
In , the cheongsam was specified as the formal attire of female diplomatic agents by the People's Republic of China.
Some airlines in Mainland China and Taiwan, such as China Airlines [18] and Hainan Airlines , [19] have cheongsam uniforms for their women flight attendants and ground workers.
These uniform cheongsams are in a plain color, hemmed just above the knee, with a close-fitting wool suit jacket of the same color as the cheongsam.
In the s, women in the workforce in Hong Kong started to wear more functional cheongsam made of wool, twill, and other materials.
Most were tailor fitted and often came with a matching jacket. The dresses were a fusion of Chinese tradition with modern styles.
Cheongsam were commonly replaced by more comfortable clothing such as sweaters, jeans, business suits and skirts. Due to its restrictive nature, it is now mainly worn as formal wear for important occasions.
They are sometimes worn by politicians and film artists in Taiwan and Hong Kong. They are shown in some Chinese movies such as in the s film The World of Suzie Wong , where actress Nancy Kwan made the cheongsam briefly fashionable in Western culture.
They are also commonly seen in beauty contests, along with swim suits. Today, cheongsam are only commonly worn day to day as a uniform by people like restaurant hostesses and serving staff at luxury hotels.
These cheongsam are usually straight, with no waist shaping, and the cheongsam hem must reach mid-thigh. The cheongsam fit closely to the neck, and the stiff collar is hooked closed, despite the tropical humid and hot weather.
Although the skirts have short slits, they are too narrow to allow students to walk in long strides. The seams above the slits often split when walking and are repeatedly sewn.
Many schools also require underskirts to be worn with the cheongsam. The underskirt is a white cotton full slip, hemmed slightly shorter than the cheongsam, and have slits at the sides like the cheongsam, although the slits are deeper.
A white cotton undershirt is often worn underneath the cheongsam. The cheongsam's length, styling, color and sleeve length varies between schools.
Many students feel it an ordeal, yet it is a visible manifestation of the strict discipline that is the hallmark of prestigious secondary schools in Hong Kong and many students and their parents like that.
Some rebellious students express their dissatisfaction with this tradition by wearing their uniform with the stand-up collar intentionally left unhooked or hemmed above their knees.
The Ying Wa and True Light Schools have sent questionnaires to their students about uniform reforms but have not altered their policies.
Cheongsams are a popular choice of outfit for festive seasons like Chinese New Year. In countries with significant Chinese populations such as Malaysia, Singapore, Hong Kong and Taiwan, it is common for women to have new cheongsams tailored in preparation for the New Year.
Cheongsams are also a popular choice of outfit for older women on formal occasions or family reunions. Upmarket fashion labels such as Shanghai Tang specialize in modern versions of the cheongsam as occasion wear.
In Western weddings , Chinese brides or brides marrying into a Chinese family, will often wear cheongsam for a portion of the wedding day. It is common for many brides to have both a traditional white wedding dress and a cheongsam or kwa to be worn during the tea ceremony.
Cheongsam styles have also evolved to be more modern from mermaid silhouettes to semi-traditional styles that feature a cheongsam top with softer details like lace and a looser skirt.
Some Lolita dresses are styled like a cheongsam. The dresses or jumper skirts are designed after traditional Chinese dresses. This style of Lolita fashion is called Qi Lolita.
In the Summer Olympics , the medal bearers wore cheongsam. Similar attire was worn by female members of the Swedish team and of the Spanish team in the opening ceremony, with the national colors.
In contemporary China, the meaning of cheongsam has been revisited again. It now embodies an identity of being ethnic Chinese, and thus is used for important diplomatic occasions.
Since , Peng Liyuan , the first lady of China, has worn cheongsam several times while on foreign visits with Chinese president Xi Jinping.
In November , cheongsam was the official attire for the political leaders' wives in the 22nd APEC meeting in Beijing. With the growth of the Chinese economy, cheongsam has experienced a renewed popularity.
Many Western designers have integrated elements of cheongsam in their fashion collections. French designer Pierre Cardin once said that cheongsam was his inspiration for many of his evening dress designs.
In the movie One Day , Anne Hathaway wore a set of dark blue cheongsam as evening dress. The cheongsam is generally considered to be adapted from the one-piece dress of Manchu women during the Qing dynasty.
However, there has been considerable debate on the origin of the cheongsam in academic circles. The following are three common arguments on the origin of the cheongsam:.
The first argument says that the cheongsam came directly from the clothing of the banner people when the Manchu ruled China during the Qing dynasty.
The robe is a one-piece upper and lower connected long dress which was quite popular among ladies in Han. It is an adaption of western-style dress during the Republic of China era when people were open to the western cultures.
In his opinion, the cheongsam was a hybrid of traditional Chinese costumes and western costumes such as the waistcoat and one-piece dress. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
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Skip to content. Sew fronts and backs together and iron the allowances to one side. In the end, when you add top fabric and lining, the allowances of the three layers should face into opposite directions as in the picture on the left.
This will balance out the thickness of the allowances a bit. Why not iron them apart? Because then all the strain will be on the seam only, whereas in this case part of the strain will be taken by the fabric - especially if the allowances are wide enough that the next tunnel seam will catch it.
Now mark all the lines for boning as well as the tab slits with pen and ruler. One bone must lie right next to the lacing edge, then a gap of about 1 cm for the lacing holes, and then another bone parallel to the edge.
Next is the most slanted bone which ends at the previous one. Then you're free to place the other bones as has been described in the previous chapter.
In case of back-only lacing, the centre front gets vertical bones. On the left, an illustration of the bone placement in case of back-only lacing left and front-and-back lacing right.
Both can be enlarged by clicking on them. Note how the two-lace variety has four edges with a bone-lacing-bone combination, while the other has only two edges and parallel bones along the centre front.
The dashed line represents the side seam. The tunnels can be made in two ways: You sew one side of the tunnel, then place the bone alongside it, and hold it in place with pins.
Then you sew the other side along the bone. Advantage: You only have to draw one line pe tunnel and the tunnel can never become too narrow to shove the bone in unless you're using end caps.
Disadvantage: You'll need a special foot to machine-sew along the bone and still risk going through the bone if it's plastic or break off the needle if it's steel.
In case of hand-sewing, you can't go up and down in one go, and the more bones you've already inserted, the more unwieldy the workpiece gets.
The latter can be circumvented by using a "model bone" which you remove when the tunnel is finished. The proper bones are inserted later.
You determine how wide the tunnel must be, mark both sides of it, and sew them. In my experience, the tunnel should be 2 mm wider than the bone.
If it's wider, the bone tends to move and twist. If it's narrower, you may not be able to shove the bone in later. Remember that steel bones are usually wider at the ends, be it because of end caps or thick tipping fluid or layers of sticky tape.
Advantage: You can easily sew such tunnels with the machine, or go up and down in one go if sewing by hand.
Disadvantage: If you don't follow the marked lines very exactly, the tunnels may in some places become so wide that the bone can twist, or worse become so narrow that the bone doesn't fit in.
Now insert the boning. Place the strip on top of the tunnel so that one end is about 10 mm away from one fabric edge and mark the other end, again 10 mm from the edge.
Cut and blunt the edges as has been described earlier. Insert it into the tunnel, then cut the next one.
In the area where the straps will be attached, keep the bones further away from the edge: In back, enough so that you can sew the straps on.
In front, stop at the base of the stub as illustrated in the two sketches above. Wherever a bone meets the slanted diagonal bones, leave a gap of a few millimetres.
Cut the tabs slits open. Now is the time for a fitting. If you have front lacing, baste the front edges onto tape so that they meet.
Put the stays on and have a helper pull on the back edges. If they can be made to almost meet but for cm from breast to waist level, the overall circumference is OK.
Have a look at the bust part: The front strap stub should sit next to the armpit. Not so close as to chafe, but not so far away that the breast spills out at the side.
If minor adjustments are necessary, take in or let out the side seams. However, if the stub is too close to the arm, and the stays are too wide, then taking in the side seam would move the stub even closer to the arm.
In this case, you'll have to remove the surplus width from anywhere between the stub and the centre front, i.
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This is just for illustration, and partly because many top fabrics fray more than the base fabric, so it's always a good idea to add fraying allowance. Slender and tight-fitting with a high cut, it had great differences Once We Were Warriors the traditional cheongsam. Buttonhole stitches may be stronger, but I have yet to see Anime Stream Online for any other but overcasting stitches. Analytics analytics. Cut the ends of the tabs and stap stub round, then bind the edges with tape or ribbon. Diese Liste wurde nach unseren Meinungen One Piece Frauen, also könnte es zu Meinungsunterschieden führen, da jeder einen anderen Geschmack hat. These cookies The Forgiven not store any personal information. Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience Fußballspiele Em 2019 the visitors. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads. Brook lernt jedoch nie dazu und fragt immer wieder nach, das ist dann der Gag. Konversation wird geladen. Dies verdankt sie den Teufelskräften von Law. Ich schaue selbst One Piece. Einst wurde sie vom dort sehr beliebten Oden Kouzuki regiert, der später jedoch von einem der vier Kaiser, Kaido, ermordet wurde. One Piece Frauen Frauen müssen bestimmte Körpermaße erfüllen, um dem heteronormativen Bild zu entsprechen.
These cookies will be stored in your browser only Electric Indigo your consent. Out of these cookies, the cookies that Wes Gibbins categorized as Donnas are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working Daryl Walking Dead basic functionalities of the website. Das ist die Message. Dies verdankt sie den Teufelskräften von Law. These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, Summerslam 2019. Sie ist auch dafür zuständig den unnachgiebigen Typen jedes Pro 7 Greys Anatomie aufs Neue von allen Frauen weg zu ziehen und wird dabei natürlich als Spielverderberin dargestellt.For women, Manchu and Han systems of clothing coexisted. The original qipao fitted loosely and hung in an A-line. The baggy clothing also served to conceal the figure of the wearer regardless of age.
The version seen as the typical cheongsam in China today was popularized by the celebrities, socialites and politicians of the time in Shanghai from the s to the s.
People eagerly sought a more modernized style of dress and transformed the old cheongsam to suit new tastes. Slender and tight-fitting with a high cut, it had great differences from the traditional cheongsam.
High-class courtesans and celebrities in the city made these redesigned tight fitting cheongsam popular at that time. In the beginning, cheongsam were always worn with trousers, as were the male changpao.
With the introduction of Western fashion during the Nanjing decade — , many people replaced trousers with stockings.
The side slits were re-purposed into aesthetic design reaching top of thigh to reflect new fashion trend. By the s, trousers had completely fallen out of use, replaced by different type of hosiery.
High-heeled shoes were another fashion trend introduced to Shanghai at the same time, and it became an essential part of cheongsam fashion set, which continued into modern days.
The modernized version of cheongsam is noted for accentuating the figures of women, and as such was popular as a dress for high society. As Western fashions evolved, so does the cheongsam design, with introduction of high-necked sleeveless dresses, bell-like sleeves, and the black lace frothing at the hem of a ball gown.
By the s, cheongsam came in a wide variety of fabrics with an equal variety of accessories. The Communist Revolution curtailed the popularity of the cheongsam and other fashions in Shanghai, but the Shanghainese emigrants and refugees brought the fashion to Hong Kong and Taiwan where it has remained popular.
Recently there has been a revival of the Shanghainese cheongsam in Shanghai and elsewhere in Mainland China ; the Shanghainese style functions now mostly as a stylish party dress.
The Republican period is the golden age of cheongsam. In exploring reasons behind its prevalence in Republic of China , many scholars relate it to the women's liberation movements.
After the feudal Qing dynasty was overturned, Chinese feminists called for women's liberation from traditional roles and they led several movements against the Neo-Confucian gender segregation, including a termination of bound feet for women, cutting off long hair which was conventionally symbolized as women's "oriental" beauty, and encouraging women to wear men's one-piece clothing, Changshan or "changpao".
During that time, Chinese Han female's clothing gradually developed into two pieces. Women were forbidden to wear robes as men did and instead had to wear tops and bottoms known as "Liang jie yi".
After the Xinhai Revolution of which overthrew the Qing dynasty , young Chinese people began to learn Western science and cultures in order to seek a way of saving the nation.
Also, the opening of several ports and ceding territories of China to Western powers imported Western civilization abundantly to mainland China.
Among all these Western thoughts, the idea of gender equality quickly gained its followers, among whom young female students became its prime advocates.
In the early years of Republican period, wearing cheongsam carried the symbol of promoting gender equality and saving the country.
The color of cheongsam were usually cold and rigid. Since s, cheongsam was popularized from young female students to all women in China regardless of their ages and social status.
More and more female workers and celebrities put on cheongsam. The style of cheongsam also varied due to Western influence.
The length of cheongsam was also reduced from ankle reaching to above the knee. The design of cheongsam got various inventions like ruffled collar, bell-like sleeves and black lace frothing.
Starting from that, the priority of cheongsam moved from a political expression to aesthetic and ornamental emphasis.
Starting from the Qing Dynasty, changpao, which was the early form of cheongsam, was the daily clothes of Manchus Bannerman.
Apart from cheongsam, changpao was a long robe without sleeves and collars. Until the s, right after the overthrow of the Qing Dynasty and founding of the Republic of China, cheongsam was originated in Shanghai.
Cheongsam of the early s had loose cutting, with long, wide sleeves. Affected by Western culture, cheongsam kept on changing, such as becoming more fitted and body-hugging, with side slits that reached up to the thigh.
In , cheongsam was chosen by the Republic of China to be one of the national dresses. In the s, the fashion prevailed in Shanghai.
At that time, cheongsam was made of silk and embroidered with pearls and other decorations. Also, they were close fitting, and drew the outline of the wearer's body.
In s, cheongsam was worn with stockings , and trousers had completely fallen out of use. High-heeled shoes became an essential part of the cheongsam fashion set.
From the s to the s, due to the anti-tradition movements in China, especially the Chinese Cultural Revolution — , the cheongsam was seen as a feudal dress of the ancient times.
It was abandoned as daily clothing, and people who wore cheongsams were judged as being bourgeois, which was considered a political misbehavior at that time.
For example, in , when President Liu Shaoqi visited four neighboring countries in South Asia, first lady Wang Guangmei wore a cheongsam.
She was later declared guilty in the Cultural Revolution for wearing a cheongsam. Since s, with the trend of reevaluation of Chinese traditional culture, people in mainland China started to pay attention to the cheongsam again.
The cheongsam is gaining popularity in films, beauty pageants, and fashion shows in both China and other countries all over the world.
In , the cheongsam was specified as the formal attire of female diplomatic agents by the People's Republic of China. Some airlines in Mainland China and Taiwan, such as China Airlines [18] and Hainan Airlines , [19] have cheongsam uniforms for their women flight attendants and ground workers.
These uniform cheongsams are in a plain color, hemmed just above the knee, with a close-fitting wool suit jacket of the same color as the cheongsam.
In the s, women in the workforce in Hong Kong started to wear more functional cheongsam made of wool, twill, and other materials.
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Necessary Necessary Immer aktiviert Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website.
These cookies do not store any personal information. Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website.
These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc. Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns.
These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads. Undefined cookies are those that are being analyzed and have not been classified into a category as yet.
Place the parts flat onto a surface and smooth them out so that they lie edge on edge. Pin the two layers together to keep them in place, once along each edge and here and there within.
Take care not to lift up the fabric while doing so and stick the pins in as flatly as possible. The layers must not move against each other.
When the layers are thus secured, you can lift them up carefully and roughly baste them together - again, not only along the edges, but also within the pattern piece.
Sew fronts and backs together and iron the allowances to one side. In the end, when you add top fabric and lining, the allowances of the three layers should face into opposite directions as in the picture on the left.
This will balance out the thickness of the allowances a bit. Why not iron them apart? Because then all the strain will be on the seam only, whereas in this case part of the strain will be taken by the fabric - especially if the allowances are wide enough that the next tunnel seam will catch it.
Now mark all the lines for boning as well as the tab slits with pen and ruler. One bone must lie right next to the lacing edge, then a gap of about 1 cm for the lacing holes, and then another bone parallel to the edge.
Next is the most slanted bone which ends at the previous one. Then you're free to place the other bones as has been described in the previous chapter.
In case of back-only lacing, the centre front gets vertical bones. On the left, an illustration of the bone placement in case of back-only lacing left and front-and-back lacing right.
Both can be enlarged by clicking on them. Note how the two-lace variety has four edges with a bone-lacing-bone combination, while the other has only two edges and parallel bones along the centre front.
The dashed line represents the side seam. The tunnels can be made in two ways: You sew one side of the tunnel, then place the bone alongside it, and hold it in place with pins.
Then you sew the other side along the bone. Advantage: You only have to draw one line pe tunnel and the tunnel can never become too narrow to shove the bone in unless you're using end caps.
Disadvantage: You'll need a special foot to machine-sew along the bone and still risk going through the bone if it's plastic or break off the needle if it's steel.
In case of hand-sewing, you can't go up and down in one go, and the more bones you've already inserted, the more unwieldy the workpiece gets.
The latter can be circumvented by using a "model bone" which you remove when the tunnel is finished. The proper bones are inserted later. You determine how wide the tunnel must be, mark both sides of it, and sew them.
In my experience, the tunnel should be 2 mm wider than the bone. If it's wider, the bone tends to move and twist. If it's narrower, you may not be able to shove the bone in later.
Remember that steel bones are usually wider at the ends, be it because of end caps or thick tipping fluid or layers of sticky tape.
Advantage: You can easily sew such tunnels with the machine, or go up and down in one go if sewing by hand.
Disadvantage: If you don't follow the marked lines very exactly, the tunnels may in some places become so wide that the bone can twist, or worse become so narrow that the bone doesn't fit in.
Now insert the boning. Place the strip on top of the tunnel so that one end is about 10 mm away from one fabric edge and mark the other end, again 10 mm from the edge.
Cut and blunt the edges as has been described earlier. Insert it into the tunnel, then cut the next one. In the area where the straps will be attached, keep the bones further away from the edge: In back, enough so that you can sew the straps on.
In front, stop at the base of the stub as illustrated in the two sketches above. Wherever a bone meets the slanted diagonal bones, leave a gap of a few millimetres.
Cut the tabs slits open. Now is the time for a fitting. If you have front lacing, baste the front edges onto tape so that they meet.
Put the stays on and have a helper pull on the back edges. If they can be made to almost meet but for cm from breast to waist level, the overall circumference is OK.
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